ISO 16373-1-2015 pdf free.Textiles – Dyestuffs – Part 1: General principles of testing coloured textiles for dyestuff identification.
This part of ISO 16373 gives the definition of the colourant classes and the relationship to textile fibres. It describes some procedures to identify qualitatively the colourant class used in textile material.
2 Normative references
The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application, For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
ISO 3696, Water for analytical laboratory use — Specification and test methods
ISO 5089, Textiles — Preparation of laboratory test samples and test specimens for chemical testing
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply colourant dye or pigment
3.2 dye dyestuff water-insoluble or water-soluble molecule which has dyeing affinity with fibre
Note ito entry: The defining difference between a dye and a pigment is its solubility in an aqueous medium. In this part of ISO 16373, the term “affinity” is used as a qualitative expression, although affinity is the quantitative expression of substantivity and usually expressed in loules per mole, where substantivity is the attraction between a substrate and a dye or other substance under precise conditions where the latter is selectively extracted from the application medium by the substrate.
4 Fibre identification
Prior to any colourant identification (including dye class), the fibre nature of the textile product shall be known. The fibre nature may be based on information given by manufacturer, etc. or can be identified, using one or more techniques as described in ISO/TR 11827, for example.
An explanatory table of colourants used in various textile materials is given in Annex A.
5 Dye classes, based on the method of applying the dye
5.1 Acid dye
Acid dye is water-soluble anionic dye using neutral to acid dye baths. Attachment to the fibre (e.g. protein fibres and polyamide fibres) is attributed, at least partly, to salt formation between anionic groups in the dye and cationic groups in the fibre.
5.2 Metal complex acid dye
A metal complex dye is an acid dye that has a coordinate metal atom in its molecule.
5.2.1 1:1 Metal complex dye
1 molecule of dye is combined with 1 metal ion.
5.2.2 1:2 Metal complex dye
2 molecules of dye are combined with I metal ion. 1:2 metal complex dyes are the most frequent.
5.3 Azoic dye
Azoic dye is water-insoluble dye which is formed on the fibre by coupling a water-soluble diazo compound with a water soluble coupling compound having affinity for cellulose.
NOTE 1 The definition of the class “azoic dye’ (‘dyers’ classification) is distinct from the definition of the class
“azo dye (see Clause 6. chemist classification).
NOTE 2 For the French version, the term “azoic dye” should be translated by colorant azoique insoluhle (known as well as “colorant naphtol) In order to make a clear distinction with the translation of ‘azo dye” by “colorant azoique”.
5.4 Basic dye (also called cationic dye)
Basic dye is water-soluble cationic dye using neutral to acid dye baths. Attachment to the fibre (e.g. acrylic) is attributed, at least partly, to salt formation between cationic groups in the dye and anionic groups in the fibre.ISO 16373-1 pdf download.